"Leather Goods Design Methods and Processes, Pattern Making and Process Design" Section 3:

Author: Fei'ers Anu Weibo: https://weibo.com/u/1646966481 Short wallet is the most frequently appeared Leather goods are now gradually declining. The emergence of mobile payment, electronic drivers license, face recognition, and fingerprint recognition in the future (there is no need to carry a drivers license and ID card with you) ) will make the former king of short wallets marginalized. However, as a very important part of mens single accessories, many people still like to use it. A short wallet with novel design and excellent workmanship is still a symbol of mens taste. Since the day the short wallet was born, functionality has had a decisive influence on its design and has basically fixed its form and structure. The basic requirement of a short wallet is that it can accommodate daily money, cards and other items in a relatively small space. It can be seen that the size of the money and the size of the card determine the minimum design size of the short wallet.

Horse rein leather + saddle made by me Wooden short clip

The minimum size of the bridle leather + Tochigi short clip I made myself by folding the short wallet in half is the size of the country’s largest denomination currency after folding it in half and adding the most basic amount. The size of each country’s currency is different, so the size of the wallet is It’s also different. This also explains why some short wallets from foreign brands feel weird when you buy them, and the big bill slots are empty. That’s because the bills in other countries are relatively large. . . . Card slots generally do not involve this issue, because the international CARD sizes are basically the same now.

I designed it myself The minimum size of the ultra-thin short clip 3-fold short wallet needs to be analyzed in two situations. First, if the size of the domestic currency after 30% discount is larger than the size of the CARD, then the size of the currency after 30% discount plus the volume isMinimum design size, second, if the size of the domestic currency after 30% discount is smaller than the CARD, then the minimum size of the CARD plus the volume is the minimum design size.

I designed it myself Tri-fold key wallet wallet

Now that I’ve talked about the minimum size of the tri-fold key wallet wallet I designed, let’s take a look at the internal structure. Let’s talk about the short folding wallet first. Generally speaking, the most common structural method is 3+1, that is, 3 card slots on one side and 1 card slot on the other side. The 3rd card slot is usually set horizontally, and the 1st card slot is usually side-inserted, and this card slot is generally larger and can accommodate some irregular or slightly larger cards and bills.

4 card slots On this basis, it can also be upgraded to 6 card slots, that is, 3 card slots on the left and right. If you still think its not enough, you can add a hidden grid under these 3 card slots, that is, 6 card slots + 2 hidden grids. What if its still not enough? Well, then divide the banknote compartment into two layers, or add some more compartments. In other words, if so many card slots and storage space are not enough, you should change to a long wallet or handbag. A short wallet is not suitable for you.

6 card slots After adding 2 hidden grid short clips, the size and structure are designed. Let’s go back and see how to make the appearance. Under sufficient light conditions (no one would take product photos in the dark), the first element of visual impact is color. Color ranks first in people’s visual experience, because even if you are myopic, With your eyes, you can't see the shape clearly, but the color will enter your sight immediately and generate stimulation signals in the brain (if you are color blind, the first impression should be the shape). So, a good color matchThis will make your work stand out easily. Here, by the way, we will popularize some knowledge about color composition. Color composition, that is, the interaction of colors, starts from peoples perception and psychological effects of color, uses scientific analysis methods to reduce complex color phenomena into basic elements, and utilizes the variability of color in space, quantity, and quality. , the process of combining and forming the interrelationships according to certain rules to create new color effects. Color composition is one of the basic theories of art design. It has an inseparable relationship with plane composition and three-dimensional composition. Color cannot exist independently from shape, space, position, area, texture, etc. Different colors have different color emotions. Light information of different wavelength colors acts on human visual organs. After being transmitted to the brain through the optic nerve, it is associated with past memories and experiences through thinking, thus forming a series of color psychological reactions. For more specific information, please refer to Baidu Encyclopedia or consult relevant books. Therefore, an excellent color scheme is enough to make your work leave a deep impression in the first place.

I designed it myself Color matching

Shape is color The second element that can leave an impression is the unique shape that attracts attention. For a short wallet, it is a bit difficult to make the shape exaggerated and innovative. After all, this is a product based on practicality, and it is impossible to give up practicality for the sake of concave shape. So, is there nothing we can do? No, we can complete the changes in shape through the design of the structure, such as different folding methods, different opening methods, or we can design from a craftsmanship perspective, such as seamless folding structures, rivets instead of suture structures, etc. Wait, you can take a look at redmoon’s works, I won’t include pictures here.

My own designed drivers license and wallet two-in-one ultra-thin model

I am completing the styling design of the two-in-one ultra-thin drivers license and wallet that I designed After that, what needs to be considered is the process issue. When considering the process issue, you need to choose the appropriate leather based on the style. The process methods used for different leather materials are very different. For example, vegetable tanned leather can be polished and edge-sealed. , wrapping, folding, and even applying edge oil, but chrome tanned leather cannot be easily polished and sealed; for another example, if I want to make a seamless folding wallet like redmoon, I must use softer and foldable leather. For leather materials that do not have obvious wrinkles and cracks on the back leather surface (to put it simply, leather materials with better restoreability), Tochigi is a good choice, while hard leather materials such as horse bridle leather and cordovan leather are It is completely inappropriate for this type of style. For another example, if I am going to use rivets instead of stitches to fix the wallet, then I also have to be particular about the choice of leather, because rivets give people a punk, rough, and street feel. Leather materials that fit this style are crazy horse leather, oil wax leather, rubbed wax leather, primary color vegetable tanning and other leathers with a relatively outstanding natural feel. However, horse bridle leather and cordovan leather are heavily artificially shaved, so Leather materials with a mainly delicate feel are not suitable for styles made with rivet fixation. Of course, these principles are not static. When you have enough aesthetic foundation, design ability and fashion prediction ability, you can also choose to break the rules. Breakthrough, this kind of breakthrough will have certain risks, and there is also the problem of too small audience, because this kind of breakthrough is based on the premise of subverting the publics aesthetics and perception. The following is the structure diagram of the basic short wallet.< p style="text-align: center;">

4 card slots are short Clamp structure diagram

6-position short clip structure diagram

6 card slots plus 2 hidden compartments short clip structure diagram at the end Let me tell you another personal experience. When designing the clamping structure, you can adopt a light-weight design, just like using aluminum alloy, carbon fiber, or punching holes in the chassis to lighten the car. Leather design can also be used. The clamping part Since many layers need to be overlapped, the thickness will remain even if it is thinned. Therefore, an irregular T-shaped card position lining structure can be adopted. From a mechanical point of view, this structure will not affect the stability of the card and is durable. The degree of impact is not big (my own wallets are all made of this structure, and there have been no problems at all for 3 years now). The most important thing is that the amount of overlap can be appropriately reduced, as shown below:

The principle of eccentric card position design can be clearly seen from the picture above. After adopting the eccentric design, the overlapping part is reduced by about 1/3, and the more card slots, the more obvious it is. This is my own experience, I hope it will be helpful to everyone. That’s it for the last article. I am preparing the design and pattern making of the deformed model. However, due to limited time and energy, the speed of subsequent course updates may be affected, so please forgive me.

Short clip