Author: Comrade Xiaojian, WeChat: axiaoxiao2233 I have been buying French sheep (cherve sully goatskin produced by Alran in France) for a while. I have only used it to make the inner leather before, and I have never dared to try to use it completely to make the outer leather of a bag. Although French sheep are also vegetable-tanned, but compared to the common hard vegetable-tanned ones, they are softer and easier to stretch and deform. I am not sure whether I can handle the processing of the leather edges, so I keep leaving them in the room. I recently found it and wanted to give it a try. The following tutorial is from a novice who is using Quanfa Sheep for the first time. It is suitable for handicraft enthusiasts who are newer than me to learn and discuss together. If there are any experts who mistakenly make mistakes, I hope you can give me some advice~ This is the finished product: < p style="text-align: center;">
1. Production version This type of key bag has two card slots. If you find it difficult to make the card slots, you can not make card slots. Like the mint green key bag that was sent before, the inner and outer skins are directly attached to each other, which can save a lot of stitching. step. The two card positions are in length and width, and the tightness of the card placement must be considered. Since the card holding function of this key bag is not the most important function, in terms of design, it is enough to consider that one card slot can accommodate one or two cards, and the card slot will not be too loose when used. Causing the card to fall and be lost. To meet the above usage requirements, you need to consider not only the length and width of the card position, but also the thickness, softness and hardness of the card position. Goat leather is softer than hard vegetable tanned leather and harder than ordinary sheepskin. In order to achieve firmness At the same time, it will not compress the space for keys. I set the length to about 10.8cm, while the length of a standard card is about 8.5cm. If it is soft leather, then this length will undoubtedly be too loose. Therefore, the double-layer method is adopted. The first is to increase the thickness of the card position (single layer thickness is 0.5mm, which is too thin and easy to deform). The second is to increase the hardness of the card position so that it can better fit the card and prevent it from being deformed. Easy to lose. After making a series of size considerations and calculations, start drawing the pattern on kraft paper. You can use softer cardboard first to try whether the size and structure are reasonable. Of course, such a trial version is not very accurate.
2. According to When it comes to pattern cutting, my production habit is to fine-cut the outer leather and rough-cut the inner leather. After gluing, I compare the pattern with the pattern and cut off the remainder. Because the inner skin is generally thin, it will deform after gluing, bending and bonding. Even if it is cut accurately from the beginning, the size will become inaccurate after a series of twists and turns..
3. Polishing Use sandpaper to roughen the flesh surface when brushing glue, so that the glue will stick better. Use film to glue the backs of both inner and outer skins. The glue should be thin and even, so that there will be no ugly "black lines" between the two layers of skin after bonding (the glue layer is too thick). I used water-based white glue from Japans Seiwa, which costs about 40 yuan for 100g. The higher-end ones include tandy water-based white glue, which costs nearly 200 yuan for 250ml, which is no longer within the purchase range of novices.
4. Sticky Bonding is a link that requires special attention, and it is not as simple as imagined. Because the key case needs to be bent, if the two layers of leather are glued flat, obvious wrinkles will appear on the inner leather when bending. Therefore, it is best to bend and glue during the bonding stage. combine. So this also requires us to calculate where to bend and the arc of the bend.
Cut off the inner skin allowance< p style="text-align: center;">
5. Make a card Place two pieces of leather together, heat the edge with an alcohol lamp (cannot use candles or lighters, as it will turn black), and then press the edge (for decorative purposes, you can skip this step).
6. The only trick to oiling the card position is patience. The rest is only familiar. Water-based oiling It will be easier to master and more fluid, just like coloring the edges.
7. Bonding the card position and the main body
8. Beat and chop
9. For oiling, you can use cotton swabs or nano sponges. Nano sponges have good water absorption and can be applied evenly. Personally, I feel it is easier to use than cotton swabs. A treasure is very good Cheap, search by yourself~
10. Sutures (mint green randomly inserted)
Put in the left needle first, then the right needle
Tighten both sides, each stitch is a sentimental bow ~
On efficiency , hand sewing is definitely not comparable to machine sewing, but the stitches of hand sewing can show double waves, which is much more beautiful than machine sewing, and the most important thing is that it is strong. Even if a needle is broken, it will not It will cause a large area of ??threading, but machine sewing will. Among luxury
leather goods brands, only Hermès insists on all-hand sewing. The complex craftsmanship is also reflected in the price ~ 11. Installation hardware
