How to Grow Beans and Peas Planting Beans and Peas Picture Tutorial

Plants such as beans and peas are relatively easy to grow, making them a great choice if you are a new gardener or just acquired a new garden plot. These legumes also have a symbiotic relationship with nitrogen-fixing bacteria, meaning they improve the nutrients in the soil. Follow these instructions below to grow your beans—then eat them off the vine and you'll see how delicious they are!

How to grow beans and peas is part of a series of tutorials on growing beans and peas. The tutorial also includes preparation for planting beans, preparation for planting peas, and planting beans. and peas, if you want to know how to grow beans and peas, follow this tutorial on growing beans and peas from the Production Department.

How to grow beans and peas

1. 1Determine how many you want to plant. This will depend on the variety you choose and the space you require. If you plan to plant in rows, you need to leave plenty of space between them – especially if you choose a tall variety.
2. 2Get some seeds. These are beans or peas themselves, which of course means that, unlike many other types of seeds, you will need them relatively fresh. Fresh beans from a farmers market will be better; fresh seeds purchased from a supermarket may sprout, but supermarkets won't list the exact variety and many seeds won't germinate. Alternatively you can purchase dried seeds, as long as they are not very old. (Check the date on the outer packaging.) Dry seeds purchased from the supermarket may germinate, but you're better off buying organic seeds (to make sure they haven't been treated so they won't germinate). Frozen or canned beans cannot be sprouted.
   • If they are dry beans, you will need to test them the first time. Soak in water, place in a damp paper towel and fold it up. Keep the towel damp at all times (approximately rehydrate it once a day or so), andOpen it after three days and take a look. If there are little sprouts growing out of the split beans, thats a good sign they are healthy and you can go ahead and plant them. (In fact, plant the seeds that germinate fastest.) If they don't seem to change, wait a few more days for them. If they still don't sprout, you'll have to look for seeds from another source; if the beans are moldy, you can try again. Let them germinate, using less water, if they don't sprout you may need to find another source of seeds.
3. 3Prepare the soil. Either put soil in a suitably sized container (unfertilized potting soil, from a garden store will do) or dig a hole where you want to plant. You need about 6 inches (15 cm) of loose, fertile soil. If your ground is clay or sand, it may be better to plant in a pot. (Or buy some compost and soil, mix it half and half with the soil you dug out, and put it back in its original location to form a small mound.)
   • Apply a little fertilizer. Remember, peas and beans can obtain nitrogen in their own way. If you provide too much nitrogen in the fertilizer, the vines will grow larger but have fewer beans.
4. 4You may end up with a surprising amount of beans. If you plan to grow only a few plants, this may not be a problem; if you grow a lot of beans, you may be overwhelmed with beans upon harvest. Additionally, some peas and beans mature "definitely," meaning they produce beans immediately after flowering. You'll have a big harvest, and then the plants will die. Other "indeterminate" species bloom and produce pods soon after they are planted (weeks to months). You won't harvest many pods at once - usually no more than 5-6 pods will mature every few days - but you will spend a long time harvesting them.
   • If you grow the indeterminate variety, two plants will produce enough beans for one person (for a side dish) in a few days. You can decide how many plants to grow based on how often and how many people you eat peas/beans.
   • For sure varieties, you can make a delicious meal or two out of them or preserve them in dried, canned, pickled, etc. forms.
5. 5Sowing. Put the first section of your finger into the soil (2.5-5cm) where you plan to plant, and then place the seed into the hole. Cover with soil (to ensure soil contact, which is essential for germination) and sprinkle water lightly over the soil (to avoid re-exposure). Example: Pour water into your hands and sprinkle it over each planted seed.
   • Although this depends on the variety, beans are usually sown about a week or two before the last killing frost in the spring. Look for the right soil temperature, anything over 60°F (16°C) is fine. Note that colored seed varieties germinate in cooler soil more easily than white seeds.
6. 6Peas are usually planted about six to eight weeks before the final killing frost ( Soil temperature is 50°F/10°C or higher). Some peas (sugar peas and honey peas) prefer cooler temperatures and prefer to grow in spring and fall in most climates. Again, your specific bean variety may have different requirements.
   • In places like the San Francisco Bay Area, peas are planted in February and harvested in late May or early June. Continue planting in September/October (the climate is still warm) and harvest in December or January.
   • If you buy wrapped seeds ready for planting, you can plant them directly without having to slim them down to make them easier to manage. You can do this, but keep in mind that if you don't get them thin enough (or do it quickly), the seedlings will end up competing for nutrients, become stunted or even die.
   • You can also plant some seeds where the harvest will take place. Some will not germinate, so plant a little in each area to make sure there are enough seeds to germinate. For example, plant about three every 15cm. Don't put them too close together; if they all sprout, it will be difficult to remove the excess without damaging the seedlings you want to keep.
   • If you have a large area to grow peas or beans, sowing seeds by hand can be a tedious job. Consider using a wheel seeder (as shown) or a seeder with a tractor attached to the back.
   • Depending on the variety and whether you plant fresh, dried, or pre-germinated seeds, it may take several years for the first sprouts to break through the soil.About 2 to 10 days.
7. 7Provide scaffolding support. Most legumes are twin-growing plants. So you will need something to wrap them around: a fence, a net between two poles, a separate pole for each plant, or a bean tent (made of 3-4 bamboo poles tied together at the top). Its a good idea to have something to support the growth when you sow the seeds. These supports can also help mark seed locations.
   • If you want your peas/beans to grow along a wire fence - especially your neighbors property - you want to be prepared to sacrifice the plants on the opposite side. If the fence is between you and the sun, you're better off not using it as a support; plants growing toward the sun may produce only few good-quality beans on your side.
8. 8Establish an irrigation schedule. Water them at least daily - more often if they're dry - but remember that too much water can be just as harmful as too little. Put your finger in the ground and test the soil. If its wet/mudgy, you've watered it too much; it should feel damp and about to dry out.
   • Use a hose or watering can to make the water rain down. Do not hose directly onto the seeds; they may be washed away or submerged.
9. 9When the seedlings reach 30 to 60cm tall, allow them to wrap around the surface Contact (pole, net, etc.). If you drop them, a) they may rot and b) they may become entangled in each other making it difficult to separate them. Keep checking them and water them every day to keep them tangledWounds grow better. They grow fast!
   • At this time you can water directly, but do not let the water pipe face them.
10. 10If you want to harvest pea shoots. Tender pea shoots are delicious whether eaten raw or cooked. When the beans are 10-15cm tall, you can pick off the top two "horizontal" leaves and take them to the kitchen. However don't pick more than this, as the branches will become fibrous as they grow, you can pick where they are still tender. The pea plants will regrow and you can harvest several crops of greens.
11. 11Watch them grow. Flowers will appear two weeks after germination. (Beans and peas have flowers that come in different colors, including white, pink, and purple, so you can even sneak some of them in your garden) When the flowers dry up, the pea/bean pods will start growing from the same spot growing up.
12. 12Harvest the pods. If your variety has edible pods, pick and eat them when they are plump. If the pods are not edible, wait until the pods are round and you can see little bumps coming out of the peas/beans. Pick them, open the pods and eat the peas/beans inside.
13. 13Beans like snow peas will taste better if harvested earlier.
    • Pick the pods on the day you plan to use them—just before eating if possible. When they are picked the taste slowly starts to deteriorate.
    • Be sure to pick them before they get old. When you taste a large pod you'll know why: Although they're not harmful, they just taste bad. The texture will become harsh and the sweetness will be lost.
14. 14Allow some pods to ripen toward the end of the growing season. If you like this variety, you can continue planting these seeds next year. (See tip.)

Materials that may be used

• Soil (land or pot)
• Pea or bean seeds
• A pole, net or fence around which to grow
• A gentle Sprinklers, such as watering cans or hose-type sprinklers that produce "rain"

DIY Tips

• If you have too many ripe pods, wait until they become really ripe (i.e. the stems start to dry out, or the pods crack), pick and open them, and place the seeds in a cool, dry place Place to dry. Next year, keep planting those seeds!
• It should be noted that farmers should water peas with 70ml of water every two days.
• Consider companion planting to improve soil and crop health.
• A good planning option is to visit a nearby nursery or seed store to get experience and advice from someone with expertise. Local nursery growers know the local climate and soil better than you can from a gardening book, and they can help recommend suitable planting times and varieties.

Notes

• If you see little bugs on your peas - green or brown ones (aphids), small white flies (bemisia tabaci), or what look like white fuzz on the underside of the leaves (another whitefly) lice) – at least wash them away with water and soap. If it has spread to a branch, cut off the branch and throw it away, then wash the surrounding branches; if it has spread to an entire plant, pull up the entire plant and throw it away. Different plants have different weaknesses, so check a gardening book to learn about other diseases and pests that can affect peas and beans.
• Most peas and beans are affected by powdery mildew and other pests. If you see a white film or dust on some leaves, cut off the affected branch, even if it has peas or flowers, and throw it away. Do not compost or leave it near any surrounding plants. If pests are detected earlyIts easier to deal with if the plant is infected, but if most of the plant is infected, pull it up and throw it away whole. Then take care of the plants near it. If the infestation is severe, don't plant peas or tomatoes next year; otherwise they will be infected from the start. If you don't treat the infestation, the leaves and stems will begin to dry out and turn brown (much like a plant dies from heat or old age), and the entire plant will die quickly (possibly spreading mold to other nearby plants!).
• In the early stages of insect infestation, dilute 9 parts water and 1 part milk powder and spray it on the bottom and top of the plant once a week or two. This will neutralize the infestation in its early stages and will prevent it from further infestation. A solution of apple cider vinegar or a small amount of baking soda can also deter pests. Seize the opportunity to stop an infestation from spreading before it reaches an advanced stage.
• Don’t plant the same crop in the same place for more than one or two years; rotate crops to prevent the development of soil-borne diseases.

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