Original text http://tieba.baidu.com/p/4490552590 Author: Brother Shendiao recently saw a metal-etched military plaque on the Internet, and he was instantly fascinated. He went to a certain treasure to purchase the materials. As a "skeleton controller" "I have also been fond of brass products since I was a child. I tried the skull copper hang tag for my first work. Because I am new to the industry, I don't know if any masters in the forum have posted similar posts, so I don't count the tutorial posts, that is, the process posts. Son. I will post a few pictures of the finished product first, and then start updating the detailed process. I hope you all like it!
First sort out the tools and materials needed: 1. 2mm thick copper plate, the shape is determined by yourself; 2. Photosensitive dry film (or photosensitive blue oil); 3. Inkjet printing film; 4. Developer; 5. Release agent; 6. Environmentally friendly corrosive agent; 7. Plexiglas plate ; 8. Ultraviolet lamp: Mine is 8w, wavelength 365nm; 9. Copper rubbing paste; 10. Copper blackening liquid; 11. Plastic boxes of various types; 12. Vise, wire saw, file, sandpaper, polishing strip, etc. Processing tools. The specific process will be updated below. Since this is my first time doing it, I may have a lot of questions. However, I have been making some similar hang tags recently. If you have new ideas and experiences, please share them. 1. Print film: Choose the pattern you like, take the film to a printing agency and print it with an inkjet printer. Pay attention to the left and right directions, because the film is reverse-printed, but it is forward-facing when exposed. My pattern is left-right and symmetrical. So it doesn't matter, but if you want to etch text and other patterns, then the left and right are very important anyway. The fineness of the pattern must be sufficient, and the blackness must be sufficient. When printing, you print on the front side of the film paper, which is the non-smooth side. The back side is smooth and the ink cannot be sprayed onto it.
2. Cut the copper plate. Cut a 2mm thick copper plate of suitable size, and use a file or sandpaper to smooth the raised edges of the copper plate, and then use fine water to Dip sandpaper into water and scrub to remove oil and rust stains on the surface.
3. Apply photosensitive dry film because photosensitive dry film is very sensitive to light, so if you are making it during the day, you must close the curtains. If you are making it at night, you must also turn off the energy-saving lamp or fluorescent lamp, but you can turn it on. Incandescent lamp. Then peel off a layer of protective film on the photosensitive dry film (there are protective films on both sides of the photosensitive dry film), and gently stick it on the preheated copper plate, so that the dry film and the copper plate are closely attached, and try to avoid bubbles. Then Use a hair dryer or electric iron to heat the dry film to firmly adhere to the copper plate. The following is the copper plate with photosensitive dry film attached:
4. Use ultraviolet light to expose the printed film on top of the copper plate with photosensitive dry film, with the front side facing (that is, the side with printed ink), with the smooth reverse side facing up, facing the pattern, close to the photosensitive dry film, and then pressing the plexiglass plate to ensure that there is no gap between the film and the photosensitive dry film. Exposure accuracy:
Use ultraviolet lamp to expose, the distance is 10cm, and the exposure is about 150 seconds. If there is no ultraviolet lamp, you can also use sunlight exposure. Strong sunlight exposure is enough for about 1 minute;
After exposure, there will be an obvious relationship between light and dark, indicating that the exposure is complete;
5. Development (corrosive , pay attention to protection) First prepare an appropriate proportion of developer and keep the temperature at room temperature 20-30 degrees. At this time, peel off another layer of protective film on the dry film and put the exposed copper plate into the developer solution. After 1 to 2 minutes, use a cotton swab or soft brush to gently wipe off the suspended turbidity on the copper plate. Wait until When the lines are fully exposed and the copper surface is fully exposed, take out the board in time and rinse it with clean water.
6. Etching (It is corrosive, so pay attention to protection) First, prepare an appropriate proportion of etchant, heat it to 50 degrees, and put the developed copper plate into the environmentally friendly etchant (note that the other surfaces should be taped with tape, or painted with an oil-based pen. (to prevent etching in areas that do not need to be etched). Shake the container gently to allow the etchant to wash away the surface of the copper plate. The environmentally friendly etching solution will slowly turn blue. Pay attention to the observation. When the required depth is reached, take out the copper plate and clean it with water.
7. Take off For the film (it is corrosive, please pay attention to protection), first prepare an appropriate proportion of release agent and put in the etched copper plate. After a few minutes, you will clearly see the dry film floating on the surface of the solution. Take it out and clean it.
8. Copper For blackening, dip a cotton swab into a little copper blackening liquid and apply it directly on the copper surface. It will turn black within a few seconds. Then polish it with sandpaper so that the black on the surface is wiped off and black is left in the deeply etched areas.
9. For post-processing, use a file and sandpaper to repair the appearance, then wipe the copper plate with copper rubbing paste, and polish it to a bright level with a polishing strip. Finally, drill holes in suitable places. Thread the rope and complete.
Summary: This is the first time I have done copper etching, and the effect seems to be okay. I have a lot of ideas. Let’s do it slowly. Next, I plan to make a copper bracelet etched with Tibetan characters. This post will be updated one after another. I will post some pictures of the finished product below. , I hope you all like it!
Continue to update below. I made two yesterday, one is a Tibetan bracelet and the other is a skull tag, which is an old version. Let’s start with the bracelet. I chose a Tibetan picture online and etched the copper plate. The process is as above. Without going into details, here is the original picture.
Then etch the copper plate, use a rubber mallet to bend it according to the curvature of your wrist, and punch holes at both ends. Then there is the finished product. High energy ahead, lots of beautiful pictures, haha!
I found an old brass piece in the antique market The cigarette box can just hold 11 normal cigarettes. I took it back and polished it again. It is very beautiful. I also etched the dragon pattern and my own seal on both sides. It felt like it was completely new
Yesterday I made a ring with the same etched text as the bracelet. I put it together as a set. It is open and not welded (mainly because the welding failed, haha). I will post it here to share with you. Thank you for your support
Etching
