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Adorable new trial version, making a simple leather vase

1. First cut the material according to the drawing

Adorable new trial version, making a simple leather vase

2. The next step in the video is positioning and drilling. Considering that the vase is stitched in 8 pieces, the angle between the two pieces is not 90 degrees but 45 degrees. I trimmed the part close to the flesh surface. , the purpose is to make the fit between each two pieces tighter and the gap smaller after stitching. As shown in Figure 1 below, the edges are not trimmed, and Figures 2 and 3 are after trimming. I used the No. 2 edge trimmer to make the slope larger. After cutting it, I polished it briefly.

Adorable new trial version, making a simple leather vase

Adorable new trial version, making a simple leather vase

Adorable new trial version, making a simple leather vase

3. Position and drill holes, two adjacent ones The cut holes of the piece must be aligned. The 4MM diamond cutter I used should normally have 49 holes. Unfortunately, I am handicapped and cut the pieces into different sizes. Sometimes I can get 48 holes when punching. Misalignment is very troublesome. A few pieces were scrapped.

Adorable new trial version, making a simple leather vase

4. Bottle The distance between the holes at the bottom is greater than 4MM, you can use an awl to get through it, I have one tooth to chop it, hehe.

Adorable new trial version, making a simple leather vase

5. After the preparation is completed, start sewing. The first two pieces are sewn quite successfully, and the gap where the two pieces are connected is not big.

Adorable new trial version, making a simple leather vase

6. Final combination stitching

Adorable new trial version, making a simple leather vase

7. Several notes on personal production experience: a When choosing leather, it is recommended to use 2.5MM thickness. I used 1.8mm. When the side panels were through-holeed, many holes were opened because they were too thin. Several holes were opened when sewing. It is really troublesome to operate thin leather. Of course. , this is also the reason why my awl is thick and my hands are broken. b. Cut each piece of meat thinly, do not cut the inside, use a large edge cutter, the best slope is about 45 degrees, remember to polish the edge and make it. The gap is small and more beautiful. In my last picture, you can see three pieces. The place where the two pieces on the left and the middle are connected is the stitching effect without trimming. The place where the two pieces in the middle and the right are connected is the stitching effect after trimming. , it is quite obvious. c. Because the two pieces are stitched front and back, the stitches can basically ripple, but the corresponding cut holes of the two pieces must be aligned, so that thread A does not cross B when sewing. The threads were not aligned correctly and I wore them several times, causing the threads to come loose many times, making it a headache to take them apart. Finally, special thanks to Lei Xiaobao for providing the platform and drawings, and to all the leather friends in the Pi Xiaojiang 2 group (Tianjin Lao Zhang , Doctor Man, Xiao Cui, A Liang, He San and other teachers) for their selfless help and guidance. Drawing source http://www.exiaodian.com/pattern/145