Detailed explanation of ten techniques of double wave suture

Author: Pinpin Qingshe, WeChat: lifanwin

About hand stitching Regarding stitching, I have planned to publish a detailed tutorial a long time ago. Taking advantage of the warmth of the small workshop that had just opened, I could finally calm down and write a few tutorials. There are nearly 500,000 pure handmade enthusiasts in China, and the number is still growing. Skyrocketing. I have seen many of my friends’ works. The stitches are neat, and the bottom line and top line are perfect double slashes. It is a beauty that cannot be produced by a motorcycle.

HandmadeLeather goods, giving bags more connotation and beauty.

Double needle double The seam method can combine different colors to give your love bag a more stunning look. Stitching is important and the finishing touch, but it is not the core of handmade leather goods. I often communicate with many friends who make vegetable tanned leather, and they all seem to misunderstand that handmade leather goods = handmade stitching. The most basic attribute of a bag is that it is a bag; not stitches. In Mr. Ke’s view, sutures are just the foundation of foundations. Since hand-made bags require hand-stitching, if the work made by hand-stitching is not as beautiful and comfortable to use as the products made by machines, who will pay for your feelings? So what is the significance of handmade leather goods? Unless we make handmade leather goods with the value of works of art, thats another matter. There are few comprehensive suture tutorials on the Internet. Most of the tutorials on the Internet are for vegetable tanned leather. The leather is relatively hard and thick, so it is easier to create double waves. This is why many friends asked me to follow the tutorial and face skin with different thicknesses.At this time, the bottom line is sometimes good and sometimes bad.

It is easy for novices to make mistakes Error (as shown in the picture above): The line has a certain slope, but the lines are sticky together. The reason for the stickiness is that the intersection point is not pulled into the skin, and a cross is formed on the surface of the skin, so it is not beautiful.

This is correct The demonstration (as shown in the picture above) creates a certain distance between the lines to form a certain sense of rhythm.

To customers When making customized bags, faced with various complex bags of different thicknesses, softness and hardness, craftsmen must be very careful when sewing, making sure not to miss a single stitch to maintain the beauty of the stitches. The technique, the angle of pulling the thread and the strength determine the rhythm of each stitch. Master all the techniques of double wave stitching in the shortest possible time, with only one purpose: don’t waste more time on how to sew beautiful threads, because that is just the basics. You should spend your time on how to make your work feel better for users to use, and how to use different soft and thin leathers to make bags with different styles. You should focus more on the original design and pattern development of your bags, rather than making the same small purses with beautiful stitching.

This is a horseshoe The package has the effect of artisan stitching done on site. The bottom line and top line are equally graceful diagonal lines. Requirements for stitching effect: Regardless of the thickness of the leather, the bottom line should be rice-shaped, have a strong sense of rhythm, and have a certain inclination, and the upper line should be a neat and full 40°-45° diagonal line. For the sake of teaching effect, we first use epsom (palm print) calf leather for demonstration. Epsom is a leather commonly used by Hermes in making styling bags. Upper thread, my requirement is, thread to threadThere should be just a little distance between them, and the intersection point of two adjacent lines cannot be exposed on the surface

Bottom line, the distance between the lines is a little larger than the upper line, and it looks like rice grains. Keep this rhythm.

Lock pin ( Back stitch), whether it is the top or bottom lock stitch, the upper and lower lines should be kept parallel and maintain a more oblique slope.

Face lock stitch Effect

Bottom lock Needle Effect In this tutorial, we will initially explain the principle of double-needle stitching, 10 techniques and the essentials of lock stitching. 1. Overview of the 10 techniques of double-needle sewing. Only by understanding the principles can you quickly master the techniques. 1. The definition of cutting and cutting

Each performs a vertical chop. The one on the left is a "skip chop", which is not commonly used, so it is also called a "reverse chop"; the one on the right is a "press chop". Even I myself often use this direction. The cut is called "right cut". 2. Cutting and suture direction (take the straight cutting as an example)

With yourself as the center, there are two techniques for sewing from near to far, according to "face cross" and "bottom cross"; conversely, there are also two techniques for sewing from far to near. There are a total of four double-wave techniques for cutting, and conversely, there are also four double-wave techniques for cutting; there are 8 techniques in total. 3. Double-sided cutting. (Many Hermes bags are actually double-sided cutting.) Double-sided cutting, there are two This technique is actually the same principle. It is commonly used in three environments: 1) Thick leather, such as 5.0MM. 2) Thin leather, such as <2.0mm soft leather. 3) In relatively large When sewing bags, sides or zippers, if it is difficult to cut after the glue is attached, double-sided cutting will be used to cut the position first and then do the next step.

Take the above picture as an example, after cutting in the same direction , to form a cross, just pull in the direction of cutting to create double waves easily. 2. Principle of double-needle stitching. Understand the principle first, and then you can quickly master the technique. The secret of "double-needle stitching" to create double waves In fact, it is at the intersection of the two lines. If the leather is thicker and harder, such as vegetable tanned leather, even if the intersection is in the middle, it is easy to have double waves; if the leather is thinner and softer, the position of the intersection will depend on the different habits of the craftsmen. , it should be biased towards the surface or bottom; for the double wave stitching method, the technique and angle are very important; each craftsman should choose the one that suits his own habits among these 10 techniques. The lines sewn with a fixed angle and strength will be more stable and beautiful.

Error demonstration: Bottom line

Error demonstration: The above two pictures of upper thread are the first stitching of a vegetable-tanned leather friend who converted to chrome-tanned leather. The leather is relatively soft and the thickness is 2.2mm. The methods are correct, but the method, angle and strength of the thread are different. Little problem. When stitching relatively soft and thin leather, the secret lies in where the intersection point should be controlled. The previous pictures illustrate this problem:

Bottom cross: The intersection point is biased towards the bottom, we call it the "bottom cross" sewing method;

Face cross: the intersection point is biased toward the surface, we call it the "face cross" sewing method; the stitching method of the leather bottom and leather surface To distinguish, when we cut, we usually cut from the surface of the leather to the bottom of the leather. When suturing, the right hand is the surface of the leather and the left hand is the bottom of the leather. Below, we take the face cross stitching method as an example to briefly talk about the principles and techniques. 1. First pass a needle through the bottom.

Bottom threading needle 2. Principle And method: Observe the upper thread cutting hole. Like the lower thread, the upper thread also goes from top to bottom, so the thread will be tilted. At the same time, the needle must pass above the thread. How to thread this needle is very important. It must meet the following two points at the same time: 1) The thread goes from top to bottom. 2) Thread the needle above the thread. The only way to satisfy these two conditions at the same time is as shown below: the needle is inserted above the cut hole, and at the same time, the thread passing underneath presses the upper thread. In fact, no matter any double wave sewing method, there will be an intersection point. If you understand this principle, you will easily find the double wave technique in different cutting directions.

Upper thread threading diagram

Then straightening technique: pull up with your left hand, and straighten perpendicular to the leather surface with your right hand. Why do I recommend pulling the wire at this angle? Because it is the most stable, on the surface For soft and thin leather, you can make the bottom thread and upper thread present a neat double wave. The technique and the strength of the thread are very important! A stable technique, the angle and the strength of the thread can ensure that your stitches are very beautiful. Novices Don’t ignore the stability of your technique just because the leather is thicker and harder.

Note: 1) When I sew, no matter which technique I use, I basically straighten the thread on the crossing side and perpendicular to the leather surface. Do not cross on that side, Pull the thread in the direction of the cutting hole at the maximum angle, so in the picture above, you will see the angle of the two hands pulling the thread, forming a 90°. This pulling angle can produce perfect results on all kinds of soft and thin leather. Especially the bottom line will not be messy, so I recommend it to everyone. 2) When pulling the thread hard, be careful not to use your arms. Use the strength of your wrist and fingers to gently tighten it in a short distance, neither too hard nor too loose. 3. Video For a brief explanation, we will use the upright cut (nip cut) as an example to explain the four sewing methods. In addition, there are four methods for the reverse cut (skimming cut); the principle is the same as the upright cut, but the techniques are different. These four techniques, friends, carefully After thinking about it for a while, you can find the corresponding technique. We simply use a mobile phone to shoot a video to demonstrate the four double wave techniques of forward cutting and punching, and the back stitching technique. I hope it will be of some help to leather friends. Check out the video https ://v.qq.com/x/page/a03971gnbcm.html

Double wave suture