Author: Ya Zhi Tiao Tiao, WeChat: wu356503154, Taobao store: https://shop113943696.taobao.com Recently, many leather friends have asked me some production methods. Due to personal problems, I am busy with orders and have limited time. I cannot answer them one by one, and there is no Time to chat. Now I will post the production process of the three-card slot classic model that I am currently working on. This style is basically done by anyone who is interested in it, but it is not an easy task to create texture and feel, that is, to make it look good. I slowly share with you some of the production methods and techniques I have learned and comprehended over the past three years or so, including beveling, drumming, etc. God, don’t make bricks.
Cut the leather, you can use cardboard or a knife mold . I currently use cardboard, which gives me more flexibility in changing styles. The knife mold is more convenient and faster. It depends on personal preference and needs. This model is made of cordovan leather on the outside and Tochigi saddle leather on the inside. It is black with orange threads and is very coquettish
A leather friend asked about the thickness of the leather used for this model. Let me pass this on first. The outer leather is about 1.7 and the inner leather is about 1.6. This model has fewer card slots and can be used with thicker leather. It is more durable to a certain extent, and the wallet looks thicker and textured. If it is a 6-card slot or 8-card slot model, I personally recommend using a leather of about 1.0 for the inner leather.
Then trimming, because we will make a bevel later, we need to use No. 2 or No. 3 to trim It’s an edger. You can’t grind a beveled edge with No. 1. I used No. 3.
Then it’s time to grind the edges. You can use two tools for grinding, one is a grinding rod and the other is sandpaper. Let me talk about it separately. First, How to polish the edge? My personal suggestion is to use edge sealing fluid. It is not suitable for newbies to use bed surface agent and the like. I learned the edge sealing fluid method from Yipijun. Now let’s talk about the process again. Trim the edge and then apply the sealant. For edge fluid, immediately use a grinding rod to polish it with a little force. After polishing, apply edge sealing fluid again and let it dry. After drying, polish it with 2000-grit sandpaper, and then apply edge sealing fluid again. It will be ok after drying.
Then we get to the hypotenuse. Before I didn’t know how to do it, it seemed difficult. But after I understood it, hey, it turns out to be so simple. The grip of the sanding rod we bought is an awl shape. Why did the person who originally designed this sanding rod design it like this? First, it is In order to use the handshake position to polish small curved parts. Secondly, I thought of it myself, to grind the bevel edge. As mentioned above, use the No. 3 edge cutter to grind the edges. Then use the handshake position of the sanding rod. Let’s polish the bevel edge
< p style="text-align: center;">
And my own The original sandpaper edge sealing method. At present, most of my works use this method for edge sealing. Why do I need to use sandpaper for polishing? Let’s think about it first. For example, for primary color vegetable tanned edges, why does the color of the edges reach the leather surface? The color is darker, it will have a layered feel, and it will look better. Well, the property of vegetable tanning is that it will change color if you squeeze it and rub it back and forth with something. Okay, then use sandpaper to grind its edges. First, you can do it diagonally Grind, so that you have a beveled edge. You can also grind a rounded edge. Just apply the edge sealing liquid and polish it immediately, and rub it back and forth.
After applying the bed surface agent, it is thinned. I thinned two skins, the outer skin and the second one with banknotes. . You can use a utility knife or a wide shovel to thin it. I use an 801 peeler. It doesn’t have to be broken to make the drum. It doesn’t have to be at a 90-degree angle. It needs to be done on a slope.The result is more natural. I cut it in 0.5cm, and the cut line was 0.3. By the way, with my method, there is no need to press the leather surface to raise the drum. It is a bit stiff to press the drum at this time.
By the way, we still have to start with thinning The thickness of the drum is an issue. The original thickness of the cordovan outer skin is about 1.7, and the original thickness of the inner Tochigi skin is about 1.6. The skin is thinned by 0.7, leaving a thickness of 1.0, so that the edges of the skin are not too thin and maintain durability. The second layer of the inner banknote position is thinned by 1.0, leaving 0.6. Because there are card positions to enhance durability, it can be thinned a little.
Adhere the card position first Thin the edge of the card slot so that the third card slot will not be stretched out of the shape of the card slot, and the card placement will be smoother. Also, the card slots are not stacked very thickly.
Adhesive outer skin retaining strip, this retaining strip has many functions Yes, the retaining strip. First, it can enhance the strength of the top. Second, there is a strip of retaining skin. When the wallet is closed, it can press the large denomination banknotes and the banknotes will not fall out. Haha, stick this strip. I personally recommend bending it. This way, the outer skin will be curved after being attached, which is conducive to the finished product and makes the wallet easier to close. When attaching, use a horn stick to press it. The function is to compress the glue and press the bulge.
< img src="https://img.111diy.com/timthumb.php?src=/d/file/p/2ed444d98558f979e2cdfa6b847a25d7.jpg" alt="">
To cut the sutures, I used the 3.0 method to sew out the stitches. Fine, the whole wallet looks meticulous. The disadvantage is that the stitching is more difficult and the time consumption is doubled. Then the outer skin and the inner edge are sealed. After the edge is sealed, the next step can be carried out.
After applying glue and gluing, it’s time for the most important step. .My method is to use a hammer to gently tighten the edge at an angle, making sure to hammer it at an angle. Once the hammer is tight, it is done. Be careful not to press the drum.If you press the drum now, the drum will feel stiff. Glue the front side first, then the back side
< /p>The shape that comes out now is that the edge is slanted, yes, it is slanted as needed. You'll be done soon! ! ! ! ! Alas, making tutorials is more tiring than making bags! ! !
Cutting sutures, 3.0 Fa Zhan is equipped with 832 lines, which is very orange. Since there is no drum in the front, now when cutting, if the cutting hole is pressed down, it will puff up a little on its own. Drums naturally. When sewing, the thread also tightens the leather a little, and the bulging becomes more obvious.
Look at the natural drumming effect, perfect
For edge trimming, use No. 3 edge trimmer. The angle of the trimmed edge will be larger, which is suitable for beveling later.
You're done. Its a long-winded sentence, but its not easy to make a simple package effective. Lets see. After I work hard on the tutorial, please help me repost it so that more leather friends can see it. There are many crafts and craftsmanship in this post that you can't learn from reading books and watching videos. If you understand it, remember to practice it, and practice will bring out the truth.
Cordovan short clip
