Paper-cut Types and Styles in She Nationality Costumes
The most distinctive costume of the She people is the "Phoenix costume" worn by women. The traditional womens costumes in Fuhu Village and Banyueli Village belong to Luoyuan style and Xiapu style respectively. These two different costume cultural traditions have differences. They also have commonalities, so the two are compared to highlight the differences and commonalities in clothing culture presented by paper-cutting as a pattern for clothing. Including Fuhu Village, the "Luoyuan style" She womens clothing popular in Luoyuan, Lianjiang and Feiluan in the south of Ningde is generally a large-breasted cross-collar style, with a long body without buttons, the front placket shorter than the back, and the placket open on both sides. Deep fork. The collar, sleeves and sleeves are embroidered with wide colorful lace, mostly red and peach red with yellow patterns, symbolizing the neck, waist and wings of the phoenix; the apron is mostly used for weddings, and the pattern is made of large clouds. It features a skirt with a wicker pattern in primary colors. There are two belts tied around the waist, one is made of white flowers on a blue background, tied back, with embroidered patterns and silk wadding at the end, symbolizing the beautiful phoenix tail; the other is made of ramie-woven vermilion cloth with brown and white stripes in the middle. . Wear mostly black shorts and thick-soled black cloth upturned-toe shoes, or single-nose shoes, with a protrusion in the middle and embroidered patterns on both sides. In addition, there are age differences in the headdress: an unmarried woman is dressed like a little phoenix, with her hair braided into a single braid, twisted into a circle with a red headband, and coiled on her head. For an adult married woman, her bun tied with a red headband will be raised to symbolize a phoenix crown. Young women wear red headbands, middle-aged women wear blue hairbands, and older women wear black hairbands. Overall, it feels like the patterns are gorgeous, the colors are rich, and the layering is strong.
Xiapu She womens clothing is divided into east and west routes. The ones in Banyueli Village belong to the west route. The style is the classical right-flap big-breasted style with small sleeves. Compared with the Luoyuan-style womens clothing, the front and back trains of the top are the same length, and the big lapels are the same. The small lapels are the same size, each has a robe, and can be worn reversibly. There are one to three pools of colorful embroidery patterns on the clothes. The patterns include: plum blossoms, magpies, phoenixes, peonies, peaches, etc. The colors include bright red, peach red, bright green, aqua, blue, white, rhubarb, etc. The collars are often embroidered with natural patterns, usually peonies, lotus flowers, double dragons grabbing pearls, etc. In ancient times, aprons had intricate patterns and numerous figures, but now they are simplified to a flower basket pattern of unity and auspiciousness. Womens hair style is commonly known as "Phoenix bun". The cloud bun has high temples, high-spirited and curved, and is unique.
Generally speaking, the paper-cut clothing patterns of Fuhu Village that represent the "Luoyuan style" are more diverse. On the one hand, the reason is that its clothing "collars", "cuffs", "aprons", "handkerchiefs" and "shoes" Large areas of flat embroidery decoration are needed in other places; on the other hand, Luoyuan is the main "transit station" for the ancestors of the She nationality to migrate from the junction of Fujian, Guangdong and Fu to southern Zhejiang, eastern Fujian and central Fujian. The clothing of She nationality women It inherits the ancient style of the late Yuan and early Ming dynasties, which has a major impact on the entire She ethnic minority area, so it is slightly complicated.
