Knots in climbing
In the process of climbing, the correctness and speed of knotting are sometimes related to life, so it is extremely important to be familiar with the knotting methods and functions of various knots. Mastery of knotting techniques comes from constant practice and experience. At first, you can follow the pictures, then practice without the book, or even type with one hand. Every step must be very correct and unambiguous. To be able to tie knots in the dark or in various other conditions, you should also know how to untie them, because in many dangerous moments, not being able to untie a knot is worse than not being able to tie it. All knots need to be tightened before use, and at least 5 cm should be reserved at the end of the rope to avoid accidental loosening.
Alpine butterfly bow
The bow is a very useful knot, especially used in road construction and group travel. Its advantage is that its shape is completely symmetrical and strong, and no matter which side is stressed, it will not cause the knot to deform. The single knot can replace the bow tie in some situations, but in most cases, especially on long climbs at very high altitudes, the bow knot is still an essential choice.
Alpine clutch Alpine clutch
Alpine knot, also known as Garda knot, is a knot that uses two iron ropes of the same shape to achieve one-way locking function of the rope. It is not suitable to be used for heel climbing protection because it is difficult to loosen the rope after it is locked.
Alpine tacks produce high friction, so they are not very suitable for pulley drag systems. The two locks are preferably HMS thread locks (pear-shaped locks), as other types of iron locks may cause the knots to get stuck. The shape of the two locks must be exactly the same.
Bachmann knot Bachmann knot
The principle is similar to the French knot and the French knot, but it is more troublesome to tie. The Buckman knot can be seen as adding an iron lock between the ordinary knot and the climbing rope. The advantage of this is that it is easy to operate, especially when wearing gloves. The disadvantage is that the friction generated will be smaller. The Buckman knot is more suitable for abseiling, but should be used with extreme caution as it is more likely to accidentally come loose than the other two types of knots and performs worse when the rope is icy.
Knot noose
Any rope or webbing sling that can be used to tie a knot can be used as a knot sling. Many climbers are accustomed to carrying two knotted rope slings with them, which can come in handy whether they are ascending or descending along the rope, or during rescue operations. The length of the noose depends on the individuals wedding number, usually around 40 inches is better. The diameter of the rope sling is also important, the most common is 6 mm auxiliary rope. A thinner auxiliary rope may make it difficult to untie the knot after tightening, and a thicker auxiliary rope may not easily grasp a thinner climbing rope.
Bowline knot
Although the Bollinger knot has become less common than the figure 8 knot in recent years, it is still a very useful knot. If you need to tie the rope around your waist when not wearing a safety belt, you can use the Bollinger knot because it is simple to tie and easy to adjust. The Bollinger knot is still easy to untie even after withstanding repeated impacts, so it is also suitable for difficult sport climbing routes, top rope training on artificial rock walls, and other situations where falls may occur repeatedly.
When the Bollinger knot is used to connect the body or safety belt, it must be prevented from falling off, otherwise it will easily loosen gradually. The most commonly used knot to prevent falling out is the double fishermans knot. Use the rope end to tie the rope loop, and the knot should be close to the knot of the Bollinger knot. The anti-detachment knot may hinder operation when locking on the rope loop, which is one of the reasons why many people prefer to use the figure eight knot.
Double Bollinger Knot
The knotting method is basically the same as the Bollinger knot. When starting to tie, make two rope loops and then intersperse them. It is more stable, safe and reliable than the Bollinger knot.
Clove hitch double hitch
The double hitch is a very useful knot that is often used in various climbing styles. It is characterized by a symmetrical structure, both strands of the rope can bear force, is easy to adjust, and can be easily punched out with one hand. Because it is easy to adjust, the double tack knot is mainly used to connect the rope to the belay carabiner, but it can also be used in many other situations. Because it is easy to operate with one hand, it is very useful when climbing on steep terrain.
The width of the double tack is equivalent to more than twice the diameter of the climbing rope, so it is best to tie it on the HMS thread lock to achieve the ideal stress state. If you tie a double knot on the D-shaped lock, it may reduce its strength.
When tying the double knot on the iron lock, try to keep the rope that may be tightened by force on the side close to the back of the lock. This will help the lock The back instead of locking the door takes the impact. In most cases, this is not very important. However, you need to be careful when tying two or more double knots on the same lock. Although the double knot close to the back of the lock can bear normal force, the double knot far away from the back of the lock will cause leverage on the back of the lock. The effect, if a third double knot is added, will even prevent the door from being unlocked directly.
Turn over the double bartack
The flipped double knot can be locked very tightly and will not slip even under impact. This approach is especially suitable for double-knotting a webbing onto an object with a larger diameter, such as fixing a noose or climbing rope on an ice ax as a belay point. You only need to twist one of the two ropes from the double tack around the fixed object (ice ax) to achieve the effect of flipping the double tack.
Double figure of eight double ring 8-word knot
Although the double-loop figure-eight knot is of little significance in general rock climbing and ice climbing activities, it can be used in some special occasions. The length of the two rope loops of the double-loop figure-8 knot can be adjusted separately, so it can be used to connect two protection points as a protection station. Although such a connection generally uses a long rope sleeve or a flat belt sleeve, if you lack equipment or need to pursue extreme Lightweight, double loop figure 8 knot can come in handy.
In collective top-rope climbing activities, climbers can use a double-ring figure 8 knot buckle to connect the safety belt, and the two rope loops are locked on the upper and lower sides of the safety belt with threaded buckles respectively. ring. Although it is possible to connect a seat belt with a regular figure-eight knot buckle, the double-loop figure-eight knot is safer and more reliable.
In specialized descending activities, as well as mountain climbingDuring the road construction process, you can also use the descending rope to tie a double-loop figure 8 knot to connect the two descending protection points.
If you need to use a double-loop figure-8 knot to connect two protection points, you should leave enough rope loop length when tying the knot to facilitate adjustment.
When using a double-ring figure 8 knot, try not to use only one of the rope loops to lock the safety belt or protection point, because when the rope loop is tightened, it may cause another One loop comes loose, rendering the entire knot useless. If you need to use only one loop of the double-loop figure-8 knot as a connection, it is best to hang a lock on the other loop and buckle it on the rope as a secondary protection to prevent the knot from failing.
Double fisherman`s knot Double fishermans knot
The double fishermans knot is usually used to make rope nooses and is rarely used during climbing. It is only occasionally used when setting up the Abalakov Ice Cave. The double fishermans knot is not suitable for connecting the two ends of the webbing.
Figure of eight 8-character knot
The figure 8 knot is a very useful knot that can be tied in many ways. It can be used to connect ropes and safety belts, can also be used to lock and connect protection points.
Using a figure 8 knot buckle to connect the seat belt is not a proper operation because it will add more information to the system than tying the figure 8 knot directly to the seat belt. A possible mitigation for a problem (carabiner). However, during group activities, descent or road construction, you can use a figure-eight knot to directly connect the protection point and fix the rope on the route.
Wear the figure 8 knot backwards
Back-threading is the basic method of tying the figure 8 knot directly on the safety belt. The specific method is very simple: first use a single-strand rope to tie a figure-eight knot, then pass the rope end through the upper and lower load-bearing rings of the safety belt, and finally pass it back along the original path to smooth out the knot shape. The rope loop of the figure-8 knot should be the same size as the safety belt protective ring. If the safety belt does not have a protective ring, the rope loop of the figure-8 knot can be used as a protective ring. The size can barely accommodate a fist.
After tying the figure 8 knot, you can use the remaining rope tail to tie a single knot or half a double fishermans knot as an anti-falling knot to prevent the figure 8 knot from accidental reasons. And failed. The rope tail left after tying the anti-falling knot should not be shorter than 5 cm.
Double 8-figure knot
The double figure-8 knots in the middle of the rope can be used to connect protection points, and are effective on ice, snow and rocky routes. The double figure-8 knot is not only easy to tie, but also automatically tightens when force is applied. The tightening process requires energy to be absorbed, so it can play a certain buffering role.
Using a single rope to tie a double figure-8 knot usually requires a rope length of about 60 centimeters. After tying, there will be about 12 centimeters of rope tail left. If it is shorter, a double figure-8 knot will be used. may fail unexpectedly. After tying, the knot should be tightened to further increase the reliability of the figure 8 knot.
French prusik French prusik
The French Knot is a very useful knot, used both in normal climbing and in emergency situations. The biggest advantage of the French Knot compared to other types of knots, such as the Gram Knot, is that it is both force-bearing and controllable, which is critical in many tow and rappel systems.
Because the French knot may accidentally loosen, it needs to be protected as a stress point. Generally, a locked half knot is used. In this way, you only need to loosen the French knot first. Unlock the half-buckle knot to control the rope release. If you do not need to control the release of the rope, you can also use a double knot as a secondary protection.
When tying the French knot, be careful not to wrap the fishermans knot on the rope set in the rope loop, otherwise the French knot will not be able to knot the rope properly.
Italian hitch half buckle
The half-buckle knot can replace the protector for protection or descent, and can also lock the brake end and be used as a secondary protection for the rescue system. The half-button knot is similar to the double tack knot, so be careful to avoid making mistakes.
High friction mode
When the braking end of the rope is parallel to the climbing end, the half-knot can exert the maximum friction braking force, so when performing heel climbing protection or rappelling, if necessary For larger braking force, half buckle should be appliedThe knot is tied above the position of the protector. This not only facilitates the handover operation of the protective box, but also allows the half-buckle to be easily locked, allowing the protector to disconnect from the system to deal with unexpected situations.
Purpose
The half-buckle knot will cause a kink in the rope when used for descent, so it is not suitable for long-distance descents when the tail of the rope cannot rotate freely.
If using a French grip as part of a rescue system, it is best to use a locked half-knot as a secondary belay. If the French Knot fails and the half-knot enters a stressed state, only unlocking the brake end can give a short length of rope to allow the French Knot to re-stress. If fixed knots such as double tacks are used as secondary protection, once the knot fails, subsequent operations will be very troublesome.
Italian hitch locking-off locking half-buckle knot
The locking half-knot is a very important technique that can be performed when the rope is stressed or slack. If you need to lock the half-knot when the rope is taut, you need to do enough practice in advance to ensure that the rope does not slip during the operation. The half-buckle knot should be tied on the HMS pear-shaped lock. Do not use an ordinary D-shaped lock, otherwise the rope will easily get stuck when the half-buckle knot is turned over.
The locked half-knot is not only suitable for secondary protection of the rescue system, but also suitable for fixing the rappel in collective descending activities, so that when a problem occurs, You can use a rope to lower the trapped person to the ground from the top of the route, or transfer the trapped persons weight to the secondary protection rope.
When direct belaying is used to belay the follower on a multi-section climbing route, if the lead climber needs to continue to lead the next pitch, he or she can do so when the follower reaches the belay position. Lock the half-buckle knot before proceeding with the handover.
The operation method of locking the half buckle is similar to that of the locking protector. First, use the braking end of the rope to tie a slip knot on the force-bearing end. The position should be as close to the half buckle knot as possible, and then Use two half-knots as anchors, and the final loop should be no shorter than 30cm.
Karabiner brake iron lock friction knot
Iron lock friction acquaintance is a descending method that uses iron locks to generate friction braking force. Compared with the half-button knot, the carabiner friction knot requires more carabiners, but has no requirements on the shape of the carabiners, does not cause kinks in the rope, and can generate greater friction through the series connection of multiple carabiners.
Use thread locks
If a thread lock is used to make an iron lock friction knot, it should be ensured that the sliding of the rope will not cause the thread of the horizontal iron lock to rotate. It is difficult to generate sufficient braking force with only a pair of iron locks. When descending on steep terrain, it is generally necessary to use two or more pairs of iron locks. The connection between the iron locks can use pre-threaded steel cables on rock plugs or other protective equipment, or another or several iron locks can be used. .
If descending may wear the webbing cover on the bottom iron lock, another thread lock should be used instead of the webbing cover to connect to the seat belt.
Klemheist knot
The Gram Knot, like the French Knot, is one of the most common types of knots. The difference between the two is that the French knot can be relaxed when thrown under stress, so it is more convenient to operate, but it may accidentally fail due to contact; the French knot can only be adjusted in a relaxed state, so it is more reliable, but the operation Relatively inconvenient. These two knots are complementary in performance and are suitable for different situations. Sometimes the same rescue system will use both the Gram knot and the French knot.
The way to tie a Gram-style knot is as follows: first put one end of the rope sleeve or flat belt sleeve close to the rope, leaving a small circle, and wrap the rest around the rope several times. Finally, it passes through the small loop and the buckle is connected to the safety belt or other parts of the system. The number of turns depends on the diameter and surface properties of the rope, as well as the material and diameter of the rope or webbing sleeve. If there are too few turns, it will be difficult to generate enough friction, and if there are too many turns, it will be difficult to adjust. Normally, when using a 6mm auxiliary rope on a newer 9.8mm climbing rope to tie a Knot knot, the number of turns should be about 3 turns.
The Gram-style knot may be difficult to adjust after tightening under force.Just push the small loop on the rope cover or webbing to loosen the rope loop at once. This is often required when rappelling with a Gram Knot.
The Gram knot, like other types of knots, can only withstand static forces and is not suitable for withstanding dynamic impacts. The impact force may cause the knot to slide a certain distance along the rope in the tightened state, causing it to melt and fail due to the heat generated by friction.
Lark`s foot single knot
Because of its low strength, the single hitch has limited application in modern climbing sports. Double tack knots are sometimes mistakenly tied into single tack knots, which can significantly reduce the strength of the knot. But the only common use of a tack is as a way to connect a rope sling or webbing sleeve to the load-bearing ring of a safety belt. For example, when making a cowtail, you can tie the webbing sling to the safety belt with a single tack knot, and the other end is buckled to the protection point. .
cowstail
The oxtail functions similarly to a daisy rope and can quickly become a secondary protection for climbers and can also be used for descent and rescue operations.
The cowtail is usually a flat belt cover connected to the load-bearing ring of the safety belt. Climbers only need to fasten the flat belt cover to the protection point with an iron lock, so that their hands can be freed. to perform other operations.
The simplest oxtail is a 120 cm flat belt cover, which is tied to the upper and lower load-bearing rings of the safety belt with a single knot, in the same position as the protective ring.
Buckle a thread lock on the web belt cover. When not in use, you can wrap the web belt cover around your waist and then fasten the thread lock on the equipment hanging loop of the safety belt for convenience at any time. Access.
Pre-tie a single knot at the midpoint or 1/3 of the length of the flat strap sleeve. If necessary, the length of the oxtail connection can be shortened.
When performing multi-section descent, the setting method of oxtail should consider the needs of the descent operation.
Overhand knot
The single knot can be tied at the end of the rope as a stop knot. It can be used as the finishing knot of figure 8 knots, Bollinger knots and other knots. It can also be used to make ropes in the middle of the rope. lock up. The single knot used as a stop knot should be tied as close as possible to the main knot.
When using a rope cover or a webbing cover to connect multiple protection points to build a belay station, you can use a single knot to adjust the length of the rope cover or webbing cover.
Reverse single knot
For the rope protection point, you can use a reverse single knot to fix the end of the rope on it, and then tie another single knot on the rope at a suitable distance from the protection point. Place a single knotted rope loop around your waist as a simple rope belay.
Piton brake Piton friction knot
The rope tail friction knot is similar to the carabiner friction knot. They are both descending methods that are very rare today, except that it is the piton instead of the carabiner that provides the main friction point.
Equipment
The number of pitons required depends on the friction coefficient of the rope surface and the required braking force. The more pitons and iron locks, the greater the braking force that can be generated. The most suitable piton for friction knots is the large V-shaped piton, followed by the large arrow-shaped piton. For iron locks, you can choose ordinary D-shaped locks.
Multiple connections
If a single piton and iron lock combination cannot provide sufficient braking force, multiple such combinations need to be connected in series. The connection method should try to use steel cables on iron locks or rock plugs, rather than using flat strap sleeves that are easily worn by ropes.
Whether it is an iron lock or a rock plug connected to the piton, the iron lock should be on the back side of the lock, otherwise the rope may get stuck in the buckle when the system is stressed. Between the lock back of the piton and the connecting iron lock or steel cable.
If the flat belt cover connected to the safety belt is likely to be worn by the rope, it should be replaced with a thread lock. Otherwise, when the rope is stressed, it will easily generate heat due to friction. And fuse the flat belt cover.
Prusik knotPrussian knot
The Prussian knot was originally invented by the Austrian Karl Prussia. It is the earliest form of knot. Today it has been basically replaced by the Gram knot. The Prussian Knot can be difficult to loosen after being tightened under force, especially if the rope is wet. However, because PrueThe Soldiers Knot is easy to pull out with one hand, so it is still useful in a few situations.
Reef knot flat knot
The flat knot is suitable for connecting two ropes with the same diameter, but it can easily become loose. When used to connect climbing or descending ropes, it should end with a double fishermans knot.
Sheet bend to connect the knot
The principle of the rope knot is similar to that of the Bollinger knot, and its main purpose is to make a simple chest harness.
Slippery knot
Slip knots are usually only used when locking protectors or half knots. Care needs to be taken when tying and untying knots to avoid letting the rope slip out of the protector. Typically, a locking protector or half-knot is completed by tying the slip knot and finishing with two half-knots.
Stopper knot closing knot
The closing knot is a single knot or half double fishermans knot tied to prevent certain knots from accidentally loosening. Normally, the ending knot should be close to the main knot, and the remaining rope tail should not be shorter than 5 cm.
Tape knot/flat knot
Water knot can be used to connect two flat straps with the same width and texture. It is usually used to make a temporary flat strap cover. For example, if you need to use the rope protection point when descending, You can connect the two ends of the flat belt with water knots to form a temporary flat belt sleeve. Water knots have low strength and may come loose accidentally, so webbing covers used for climbing and connecting belay points should not be made of water knots. Instead, machine-made webbing covers should be chosen.
