Illustrated tutorial on homemade alcohol stove, teach you how to make a simple solid alcohol stove using cans. This alcohol stove is simple to make, cheap, easy to carry, and has super powerful firepower. Follow us to learn how to make this super powerful alcohol stove!
1. Preparation process
2. Find an aluminum can with a good shape.
3. Use a wallpaper knife to make 6-10 circles at the intersection of the flat and vertical surfaces of the bottom of the jar, gradually increasing your attention.
4. Use a knife or other tool to make a few holes in the bottom of the marked can.
5. Use small needle-nose pliers to tear the bottom of the jar downward along the scored line.
6. Be patient and use moderate intensity!
7. Tear off all the bottom of the canIt looks pretty good.
8. Use a sharpening rod or file to sharpen it slightly to remove the stubble.
9. This is basically what it looks like.
10. Compare the sizes and determine the size.
11. Use a wallpaper cutter to cut the Wanglaoji tinplate can of the determined size.
12. After cutting, use scissors to make a smooth incision along the drawn line. diyjucom
13. Use a file to polish the cut at a 45-degree angle to facilitate the upper and lower joining in the next step.
14. Method 1 for making the middle layer, cut off the remaining tinplate can body.
15. Almost like this.
16. Use a ruler to clamp it, and use a wallpaper knife to make a few hard cuts.
17. Roll up the canned lunch meat and tear off the excess.
18. Look at the other side.
19. The tear is perfect.
20. The middle height of this tank is designed to be 45MM. After measuring, draw a straight line.
21. Score the other side with a wallpaper knife a few times, roll it up and tear it off.
22. The same goes for vertical edges.
23. The inner circumference (including riveted edges) is about 159-160mm. After rolling, rivet the UN slot.
In this tutorial, I used Lulu’s tinplate can as the inner layer. Start by removing the top of the can, a job that requires meticulousness and patience. Then smooth the incision and use small needle-nosed pliers to gently break it inward along the circumference of the incision.
25. The top is small and the bottom is large, and the aluminum can and the tinplate bottom can can be combined relatively.
26. Prepare the middle layer and bottom of the tank.
27. Start drilling holes for the upper can, distribute them evenly, draw marks, and first use a steel awl to prick the holes for positioning.
28. Then use the electric drill and install the 1MM metal drill bit.
29. Punch the hole and put it on the can.
30. Cut the upper can with holes according to the designed height and trim it flat.
31. Look inside the hole.
32. Use a larger metal drill bit to slightly trim the inside of the hole and remove the burrs (align it and drill it with your finger. The burrs will disappear immediately).
33. It’s time to assemble. Seal and glue with 704 silicone.
34. First, apply silicone evenly on the inside of the upper can.
35. Coat the mouth of the upper can with glue.
36. When drying the cans. Turn the bottom of the middle Lulu can upward and use a triangular metal to open four V-shaped grooves.
37. This is the groove.
38. Place the grooved Lulu can with the V-shaped groove facing upward, and put it into the inverted upper can. Turn it around to make the 704 glue even and you can feel the stickiness with your hands.
39. Use another can to slightly expand the upper can.
40. Apply a circle of 704 on the opening of the lower tank.
41. Align the upper and lower cans and buckle them together.
42. Check whether the middle layer has shifted. If not, turn it upside down and flatten it, and press it evenly with your hands. Since the tinplate middle layer is very strong, there will be no deformation of the aluminum middle layer due to excessive pressure.
43. Turn over and press again. Check whether the furnace mouth is level. Finally wipe off excess 704 silicone.
44. It’s basically done. Look inside. The middle layer is perfectly aligned with the tinplate groove at the bottom of the can.
45. From the side, the height of the upper can is just right.
46. ??The last step is to rivet the mouth of the furnace. Use curved nose pliers to wrap one side to prevent scratching the mouth of the can and affecting the appearance.
47. Pinch the inside of the can mouth little by little to clamp the can mouth with the middle layer. This requires about three turns, adding a little more force each time.
48. After pinching, it feels smooth and flat with basically no gaps. There is no overflow with 704 padding either.
49. Look at the final furnace body. More beautiful.
50. The interior is relatively flat. Much better than the interior of a mass-produced alcohol stove bought from Taobao.
51. Test and warm up.
52. Preheating ends.
53. Preheating ends.
54. Start burning.
55. Burn.
56. Normal cycle combustion.
57. Set up a pot and try it.
58. Comparison with the flame of Taobao mass-produced alcohol stove.
59. Continue to compare.
60. Much more firepower. The hole distance of the furnace made this time is 10MM. If you want a more uniform flame, control the hole distance to 7MM.
Remind everyone that alcohol is a highly volatile fuel and you must be careful when using it. First, definitely do not add alcohol when burning. If it is really necessary To add, put out the fire first, or add with a disposable syringe. Second, the alcohol stove must not be blown out with your mouth. The correct way is to cover it with a damp cloth or close it with a bowl. Third, Because it is too light, be careful not to tip it over when using it. If it does tip over, cover it with a damp cloth immediately. Fourth, It is best not to put alcohol in glass containers when going out. It is better to use mineral water bottles. Fifth, To avoid the risk of explosion, please use it in an open area. It is recommended that you purchase regular products for long-term use.
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